Currently Viewing Posts Tagged HDMI

Lakka – The open source game console

I always want to have my own arcade game machine. Today I tried Lakka, actually, I tried RetroPi before. Lakka is a lightweight Linux distribution that transforms a small computer into a full blown game console.

First of all, I would like to list my hardware for this small project.

  • Raspberry Pi 3 Model B
  • 16GB MicroSD card
  • Monitor: Acer AL1716, which is VGA connector
  • AC power adapter, I use the one from my old smartphone
  • Afterglow Xbox 360 wired controller
  • DragonRise Arcade joypad
  • HDMI A to VGA converter
  • 2 way Speakers

Second, the basic Lakka information.

Lakka is built on LibreELEC, LibreELEC is a fork of OpenELEC. It makes it support a lot of different hardware.

From Raspberry Pi Zero to Raspberry Pi 3, from Odroid-C1 to Odroid-XU3/4, and also support PC, Orange Pi, Cubieboard, etc.

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3-Port HDMI Switch

Got this 3Port HDMI Switch on Amazon from the third party seller. Cost $5.97.


It took about one month for shipping from China Mainland.

I tested it with my XBOX, but the screen is blinking and also tried with my Xiaomi Box, failed.

I read the reviews on Amazon. Found the following:

Beware… This thing is not HDCP compliant so, it is unusable with the PS3 and PS4. On my PS4, it kinda works for a few minutes and then the screen starts to blink on and off. On my PS3 there is “snow” in the display and since it is not 1983 anymore….

My Roku and my AppleTv are always on (no off option on those devices) the automatic switching does not work for these devices, so it does not really offer a big plus over unplugging and re-plugging HDMI cables…

I guess it could work to split HDMI in between a PVR and a standard Blu-Ray player, but it is of no use for game consoles and for Roku/AppleTv users.


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HDMI 2.0

HDMI organization just posted HDMI FORUM RELEASES VERSION 2.0 OF THE HDMI SPECIFICATION. It is a new standard. Previous is HDMI 1.4

I wrote one post before about HDMI 1.3 vs HDMI 1.4

So, what about HDMI2.0. What’s new?
HDMI 2.0 vs HDMI1.4

  • Max Clock Rate: 600Mhz vs 340Mhz
  • Maximum TMDS throughput per channel (Gbit/s) including 8b/10b overhead: 6 vs 3.4
  • Maximum total TMDS throughput (Gbit/s) including 8b/10b overhead: 18 vs 10.2
  • Maximum throughput (Gbit/s) with 8b/10b overhead removed:14.4 vs 8.16
  • Maximum color depth (bit/px): 48 vs 48
  • Maximum consumer resolution over single link at 24-bit/px:  3840×2160p60 vs 3840×2160p30

HDMI 2.0 has following five new features:

  1. 4K resolution support at 60 fps
  2. Support for up to 32 channel audio
  3. Support for up to 1536 kHz audio
  4. Support for up to 4 audio streams
  5. Support for 21:9 aspect ratio

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HDMI 1.4 Cable

I bought three HDMI cables from Taobao. Price is much lower than those on Ebay.
I just noticed that the HDMI is version 1.4 now.
Based on the Wiki:

HDMI 1.4 was released on May 28, 2009, and the first HDMI 1.4 products were available in the second half of 2009. HDMI 1.4 increases the maximum resolution to 4K × 2K, i.e. 3840 × 2160p (Quad HD) at 24 Hz/25 Hz/30 Hz or 4096 × 2160p at 24 Hz (which is a resolution used with digital theaters); an HDMI Ethernet Channel (HEC), which allows for a 100 Mbit/s Ethernet connection between the two HDMI connected devices so they can share an Internet connection; and introduces an Audio Return Channel (ARC), 3D Over HDMI, a new Micro HDMI Connector, expanded support for color spaces, with the addition of sYCC601, Adobe RGB and Adobe YCC601; and an Automotive Connection System.HDMI 1.4 supports several stereoscopic 3D formats including field alternative (interlaced), frame packing (a full resolution top-bottom format), line alternative full, side-by-side half, side-by-side full, 2D + depth, and 2D + depth + graphics + graphics depth (WOWvx), with additional top/bottom formats added in version 1.4a. HDMI 1.4 requires that 3D displays support the frame packing 3D format at either 720p50 and 1080p24 or 720p60 and 1080p24. High Speed HDMI 1.3 cables can support all HDMI 1.4 features except for the HDMI Ethernet Channel.

HDMI 1.4a was released on March 4, 2010 and adds two additional mandatory 3D formats for broadcast content, which was deferred with HDMI 1.4 in order to see the direction of the 3D broadcast market. HDMI 1.4a has defined mandatory 3D formats for broadcast, game, and movie content. HDMI 1.4a requires that 3D displays support the frame packing 3D format at either 720p50 and 1080p24 or 720p60 and 1080p24, side-by-side horizontal at either 1080i50 or 1080i60, and top-and-bottom at either 720p50 and 1080p24 or 720p60 and 1080p24.

HDMI 1.4b was released on October 11, 2011.[149] One of the new features is that it adds support to 1080p video at 120 Hz. All future versions of the HDMI specification will be made by the HDMI Forum that was created on October 25, 2011.

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Raspberry Pi Accessories

To make Raspberry Pi work, I need some accessories. When I ordered Raspberry Pi from the official site, it is a PCB only. I need the following items.

  • USB keyboard and mouse.
  • Prepared SD card. At least class4, 4GB.
  • HDMI or composite television, OR a monitor with DVI or HDMI input, and an HDMI/composite cable.
  • Micro USB power supply – make sure you use a good quality one, capable of providing at least 1A at 5V.
  • Ethernet LAN cable (optional).

I have USB keyboard and mouse.

SD card, I have 8GB Kingston SDHC.

HDMI cable, I have one. I can use it to connect it to my TV. Now I got one gardget, or HDMI Female to DVI Male Adapter. So I can connect it to Acer monitor with DVI connector.

Micro USB poser supply. I bought one AC Adapter, or Slim USB Power Adapter. Then, I don’t need to use my HTC power adapter any more.

And CASE. Clear case is great. I like it.

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The first time to make the Raspberry Pi work

I power on the Raspberry Pi this morning. See pictures below.
The first look of the screen in text mode. Raspberry Pi is located on the lower right corner.

After the loading, I can enter startx to load a window.


Because it is the first time, I want to record the steps clearly.
First of all, I need the five important parts for make the bare board work.
USB keyboard and mouse.
Logitech USB mouse, M-BJ69


Microsoft Wired Keyboard 400v1.0
Prepared SD card. At least class4, 4GB.
Kingston sd4/4GB, class 4

HDMI or composite television, OR a monitor with DVI or HDMI input, and an HDMI/composite cable.
HDMI cable to connect my 42 inches TV
Micro USB power supply – make sure you use a good quality one, capable of providing at least 1A at 5V.
I use HTC cellphone power adapter. It is 5V 1A.
Ethernet LAN cable.
Normal LAN cable.

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